A calm week-by-week plan for puppies and adult dogs (especially post-Christmas)
Bringing home a dog is exciting — and then reality hits: disrupted sleep, toilet accidents, big feelings, and a dog who doesn’t seem to “settle.”
Here’s the truth: in the first 8 weeks, most problems come from too much, too soon.
Charities like Dogs Trust and Battersea recommend a calm start — limit overwhelm, build a routine, and allow time for trust to grow.
This guide gives you a simple 60-day timeline you can follow without turning your life upside down.
TL;DR: Your 60-day roadmap
- Days 1–7: shrink their world + routine + calm
- Weeks 2–4: build habits (toilet rhythm, settle, alone-time reps)
- Weeks 5–8: expand freedom slowly + add real-life distractions gradually
If you only remember one thing:
Routine first. Confidence second. Freedom last.
What “settling in” actually looks like
In the beginning, your dog is processing:
- a new home and smells
- new people
- new sounds
- new rules
- (often) a new diet
That’s a lot. So aim for predictability, not perfection.
Phase 1: Days 1–7 — Shrink the world
This week is about making your dog feel safe.
Do this
1) Keep life small
- One main room to start
- One bed/mat that becomes their “calm zone”
- One quiet retreat space (where nobody disturbs them)
2) Limit visitors and excitement
Dogs Trust specifically advises avoiding visitors at first so puppies aren’t overwhelmed.
Same logic applies to adult dogs: calm first, social later.
3) Start a routine on day one
PDSA’s vet advice and Dogs Trust both emphasise that the first day/night helps set the tone — routine matters.
Pick meal times, toilet breaks, and a consistent bedtime.
Avoid this (common mistakes)
- “Meet everyone” week
- Lots of new chews/treats/foods
- Too much freedom in the house
Phase 2: Weeks 2–4 — Build habits (without adding chaos)
This is where you build the foundations you’ll keep for years.
Habit 1: Toilet rhythm
- Take them out on a predictable schedule
- Reward the moment they finish (quietly, consistently)
Habit 2: Calm greetings
- Reward four paws on the floor
- Ignore jumping, reward calm behaviour
Habit 3: Settle on a mat
Make one spot the “calm pays” place:
- bed/mat down
- dog steps onto it → “yes” → reward
- build duration slowly
Habit 4: Alone-time practice (gently)
Learning to be left alone is a core life skill. The RSPCA recommends training this so your dog learns that being alone is nothing to worry about.
How to start (simple):
-
Give a calm activity (sniff/chew appropriate for your dog)
-
Step out of sight for seconds
-
Return before they worry
-
Repeat daily, gradually increasing time
Dogs Trust also stresses doing this gradually and positively, especially for puppies.
If your dog panics or can’t settle, go slower — or get help early from a qualified behaviour professional.
Phase 3: Weeks 5–8 — Expand safely
Once your dog has predictable rhythms, you can widen their world.
Do this
- Increase access to the home one room at a time
- Add distractions on walks gradually
- Keep training short and upbeat
Still avoid this
- Big changes every weekend
- Long absences without training for alone-time
- Overstimulating social plans
Feeding in the first 2 months (how to avoid tummy drama)
A new environment can be stressful — and stress + sudden diet changes can lead to loose stools.
1) Keep food consistent at first
If you can, get a small amount of their current food when you bring them home (many vets advise this for a smoother transition).
2) If you switch food, do it gradually
Dogs Trust advises transitioning over a few days to a week, rather than switching suddenly, to avoid upset stomachs.
For sensitive dogs, some vet guidance recommends extending that closer to 7–10 days.
3) Treat budgeting (especially in training-heavy weeks)
In the first month, training is frequent — which can quietly double calories if treats aren’t measured.
A simple method:
- use part of their daily food allowance as training rewards
- keep chews/treats predictable (not a new one every day)
Wolfworthy links:
Puppy note: socialisation should be smart, not intense
The AVSAB (veterinary behaviour specialists) states that the first three months are a critical period for socialisation and supports appropriate socialisation before puppies are fully vaccinated, using safe, positive experiences.
Practical take:
- prioritise quality over quantity
- avoid forced greetings
- ask your vet about local risk so you choose safe places and safe dogs
When to speak to your vet or a qualified behaviour professional
Contact your vet if your dog has:
-
vomiting, diarrhoea that persists, blood in stool, or marked lethargy
Or seek behaviour help early if you see:
-
escalating panic when left alone
-
persistent fear that isn’t improving with a calm plan
-
aggression or bite attempts
Getting support early is usually faster (and kinder) than trying to “push through.”
FAQs
How long does it take a new dog to settle?
It varies, but most dogs need weeks, not days. Expect the first few days to be the biggest adjustment, then gradual improvement as routine becomes predictable. (Some dogs take longer — that’s normal.)
Why does my dog seem worse around weeks 2–4?
Often they’re starting to feel safer — and you’re also adding more life (walks, visitors, normal routines). Return to basics: reduce overwhelm, tighten routine, reward calm.
When can I start leaving my new dog alone?
Start gently from the beginning, but keep it tiny: seconds → minutes → longer periods. Build gradually and keep it positive.
How much freedom should my new dog have in the house?
Less than you think. Start with one main space and expand room by room once habits are stable.
What should I feed in the first few weeks?
Consistency matters most. If changing diet, transition gradually over several days to a week (or longer for sensitive dogs).
